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The End of Coffee As We Know It

Postby KnowGood on Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:53 am

My wife sent me this article via The Huffington Post. Thought some might like to give it a look over:

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/david-poh...51206.html
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Postby Sir Anselm on Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:49 am

Interesting indeed! Thank you! I hope he's right in what he writes and I hope that we are moving from "big industry coffee" to a market of farmers, roasters and buyers. Direct trade, fair trade and ecology should be promoted.
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Postby another_jim on Thu Oct 07, 2010 10:11 am

This makes about as much sense as saying that rising fish prices are not a problem because there's never been so much good caviar. Commodity coffee is a separate market from specialty; and rising prices will have the usual middle range effect -- a glut of low quality coffee in three to five years time, followed by another price collapse..

I'm all for specialty coffee, and I agree that it's a golden age for high end coffee. But that is because every coffee grower with the ability moved into specialty coffee when commodity coffee prices collapsed in the 90s. My hope is that specialty has become as separate from commodity coffee as caviar is from canned tuna.

This never used to be true when the same farm produced maybe 20% percent specialty and 80% commodity coffee. In Central America, farmers know the writing is on the wall for labor intensive commodity coffee, since you're competing with mechanized South American farms and quasi-slave labor in Vietnam. So they've changed practices to sharply raise the level of specialty they harvest each year. In El Salvador, the percentage of coffee higher than C grade is up to 80%. So there, I think the markets have separated. But in Brazil and Columbia, on the large plantations, I think they can still easily switch between producing labor intensive specialty coffees and more mechanized commodity coffee. So there the price changes may lead to a reduction in high quality coffees. I do not know how the price changes will play in Africa.
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Postby Sir Anselm on Thu Oct 07, 2010 10:33 am

Interesting point Jim. Do you mean it is possible that the increase in price for commodity coffee could in fact mean that production of specialty coffee will decrease? Which in turn would mean that prices for specialty coffee would increase even more?
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Postby another_jim on Thu Oct 07, 2010 11:46 am

I'm not sure what will happen overall; it requires a lot more in-detail knowledge than the article gives or that I possess.

For instance, one effect of the price collapse has been the appearance of "designer Brasils" like Daterra. Daterra is a set of large plantations that used to produce commodity coffee. Producing specialty is more expensive for them, and if commodity prices rise, they might be better off switching back. How much of a price change would this take? How many farms are in a similar position? I don't know. It's the kind of information that only becomes available when it's commissioned as expensive market research, so I'm guessing Nestle and Starbucks know, but not too many others.

I doubt there will be much effect at the very highest, auction and COE coffee level; so us "coffee-caviar" swilling hobbyists should be OK.
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Postby coffeeloverlisa on Fri Oct 08, 2010 9:34 am

Thank you for posting this article and for the discussion in language that is easy to understand. Sometimes I need subtitles in "coffee -geek" (no offense!)

There seems to definitely be two worlds here: commodity coffee and specialty. There is little chance the grocery stores, Tim Hortons/Mcdonalds etc could send out their trucks every day loaded with the coffees that smaller farms could produce. Charging $4 a cup with a donut simply would not be tolerated. Even with Starbuck's volume I dare to say is questionable compared to the what we in the specialty coffee business say is our standard.

The demand is here for humans to need coffee beans "as we know it", but the industry is changing. Fair Trade means little to those in the know. Direct Trade is more meaningful but it takes a while to explain it. Certainly won't happen at a drive through! :-) Getting folks to pay the premium for the good stuff only comes at the small roaster/café level. Fortunately lots of people like this in their neighborhood, especially if the café has wifi.

Cheers!
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