by another_jim on Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:45 pm
Good question.
My opinion is fairly radical on this -- there would not be much similarity between a blend designed purely for espresso and one designed purely for milk drinks.
-- Strong dry distillate tastes that are marginally undrinkable in black coffee and horrible in espresso are wonderful in milk. The clove flavors in dark roasted Kenyas and some Colombias particularly come to mind.
-- Espresso requires a lush, creamy mouthfeel best provided by medium roasted Brasils or perhaps Harars and Yemens. These tend to under perform in milk, where getting the caramel/vanilla/chocolate flavors from these beans typically requires a slightly darker roast
-- There are some bright, light roasted beans that make good cappas; typically non-citrus Centrals with apple, stone fruit or berry flavors, but most are duds. For espresso on the other hand, even a pinch of a lighter or more acidic roast can do wonders.
In practice, blends designed for both drinks tend to be compromises tilting one way or the other. In Italy, the cappas made from blends designed primarily for straight shots, tend to taste like lightly caramelized milk; in the US, the straight shots, made from blends designed primarily for milk, tend to taste dark and brooding.
The best roasters in the US are proud that their mainline blends work well in both directions. This is actually a very tough feat, and they have reason to be proud. However, I hope that eventually enough people here order straight shots to justify separate blends, and that they can use their creativity and access to great coffees for something more creative.