So the past few months I've been trying to make it out to as many espresso cafes as I can around Tokyo. I thought I'd just post some thoughts, for anyone visiting or living in Tokyo. I'll update this post as I try more places.

What I look for in an espresso cafe:
- At least one bean variety that isn't too dark. This is just a personal preference. Medium roast is OK but I find dark roasts taste like cigarette ash. If they offer a choice of beans, that's a big plus for the cafe IMO.
- All the basic espresso drinks on the menu: ristretto, normale, macchiato, cappuccino, latte/flat white, americano/long black. Almost every cafe has served everything on that list except ristretto. As far as I know, Paul Bassett's is the only cafe in Tokyo to have ristretto on the menu.
- Skilled baristas that pull excellent shots (nice crema, good mouthfeel, not too sour or bitter).
- Pleasant staff and service.

My thoughts on various cafes:

Paul Bassett's, Shinjuku -- My favorite cafe in Tokyo so far, and what got me back into coffee and espresso. My gold standard against which I compare all the other cafes I go to. House blend is medium-light-ish, with a daily rotating light single origin also available. Menu includes ristrettos and macchiatos. I asked the baristas some questions last time about their methods. They say they usually use around 25-point-something grams of coffee in the basket per double shot (I think they said their acceptable margin of error was .2 grams). They shoot for for a 25-30 second extraction with ~22 grams output per shot. And these metrics are bean-dependent of course. 360 yen for a single shot, but anything on the menu is half price after your first drink.

Paul Bassett's GB5 (Thanks, Frank!)



Coutume, Omotesando -- Shiny white Synesso to match the shiny white decor of this artsy cafe, based on one of the same name in Paris. Only one bean variety offered (they said their 2nd grinder was broken) but it was a lighter roast, pulled well, with very nice flecked crema. Honestly it was probably the most beautiful shot I've ever had in my life, and it was delicious. No macchiato or ristretto on the menu, although I've since returned, and they do have a drink that is similar (exactly?) like a macchiato, but they gave it some other name. Probably my second favorite cafe so far after Paul Bassett's.

Coutume shot:



Brooklyn Roasting Company, Yurakucho -- On the 6th floor of a huge department store building right next to Yurakucho station (Ginza exit). Another shiny, brand new Synesso machine. Only one grinder, and on the day I dropped by, it was occupied by a super dark Sumatran. The barista clearly took a lot of care and pulled a great shot, but I really don't enjoy that kind of dark bean. The barista said they change beans every few days, so I guess you're just subject to the luck of the draw on that. They have macchiatos on the menu, but not ristrettos. Honestly, the shot was pulled so well and the crema looked so nice that I really want to go back to this place, but the Russian roulette-ness of possibly going on a day when they only have a super dark bean is off-putting. Honestly they're so close to being a great cafe, if only they bought one more grinder...

I went back to this place once, just to see if they had a lighter roast, but no dice: my macchiato was completely burnt and ashy tasting.

Brooklyn Roasting Company shot:



Peace Coffee Roasters, Shimbashi -- Really disappointing espresso, despite the big red La Marzocco machine behind the bar. The crema looked like what I pull on my $100 Delonghi, and it tasted like one of my more mediocre shots. On the other hand, they do sell a wide variety of beans for SUPER cheap! Even cheaper than buying Starbucks beans. I have bought a few bags over the past couple months, some of which were VERY good, but you may wish to check the date on the label, as some of the beans for sale were roasted 3 or 4 weeks prior.


About Life Coffee Brewers, Shibuya -- Tiny corner shop that doesn't even have chairs. There are a couple benches outside, and a wall shelf/table inside for a bit of standing room. They had several bean varieties available for espresso (I think I saw an empty grinder, so I suppose they might single-dose some varieties). I told them to give me a shot of their lightest roast and it was very good. Friendly baristas. No macchiato, ristretto, or even cappuccino on the menu. Very stripped down feel. All in all I really enjoyed this coffee and it's one of my favorite Shibuya cafes overall so far. It's downright charming. If the weather is good, definitely give it a try!

About Life Coffee:



Coffee House Nishiya, Shibuya -- Only one bean available, and it tasted like a medium roast. Not too bad at all, actually. The menu had a lot of crazy drinks I've never seen. The atmosphere was very dark and cozy. It also boasts one of the cheapest shot I've found so far at only 250 yen. Not a bad cafe at all.

My girlfriend got this cap there:



Fab Cafe, Shibuya -- Good coffee marred by very slow service. I waited a very long time after ordering before being served, and by the time the espresso got to me, the crema had mostly dissipated. Looks like a very popular hangout for work-on-your-laptop types along with foreigners, and one of the few cafes I've been to that was actually crowded or filled to close to capacity. Unfortunately, the service suffered for the popularity. The worst part is, the coffee was very good otherwise.

This is how Fab Cafe served their espresso:



The Roastery, Shibuya -- This cafe seems based around huge milk drinks. The smallest latte had two shots in it and was really quite large. I think the largest size contained a quad shot! They had a choice of two beans. Both looked on the lighter side of medium. I ordered straight espresso and was surprised to see it was a double shot. It was served in a thin-walled glass. I really didn't like this for two reasons: poor heat retention, and awkward drinking. The glass was so big compared to the espresso that it just felt weird drinking the espresso out of the bottom. The shot also got cool quickly, and the crema disappeared almost immediately. The esprseso itself was sweet but the texture was very thin (maybe just more noticeable due to the coolness of the shot). They have a roaster with a large variety of beans for sale right in the back of the cafe. I've bought two different varieties from them and have been more than satisfied with their beans. They have many to choose from and are very fresh. The staff was very friendly as well. I would recommend this place if you like really big lattes but not if you want something small or a straight espresso.


Obscura Coffee, Akihabara -- Tucked away inside a repurposed train station just a few minutes out of Akihabara station's "electric town" exit, is one of the best spots for espresso in north Tokyo: Obscura Coffee Roasters. It's a tiny cubby that is pretty much unsuitable for drinking inside (even less so than About Life Coffee), so I wouldn't go here for a drink if the weather is bad. There are a couple tables outside. They have two beans on offer, a blend and a rotating single origin. The menu is very complete--you'll find everything but a ristretto. I had a shot of their Costa Rican beans, which was very pleasant, although the crema dissipated surprisingly quickly (maybe because I was drinking it outside in the cold?). It was still, overall, a pretty darn good shot in my estimation. The staff was pleasant and knowledgable. If you're in Akiba or Kanda and looking for coffee, as far as I know this place has no peer.

I've seen more Synessos than probably any other brand of machine. It is even more ubiquitous than La Marzocco. Here's Obscura's:


Menu of beans available for purchase at Obscura:



Double Tall Cafe, Harajuku -- This is a popular little cafe on the second story near a bustling intersection in the Shibuya/Harajuku area. I've probably walked past it a dozen times in the past few years without ever really noticing it was there.They had no choice of beans, and the one they do offer is dark roasted, so I was already prepared for the disappointing shot which was to come. The crema was honestly unlike any I've ever seen before. Thick and dark--quite a beautiful shot. Unfortunately, the flavor was even more ashy and burnt than I was expecting. Yuck.

Very interesting crema @ Double Tall. If only it tasted half as good as it looked:



Glitch Coffee, Jimbocho -- This cafe was recommended to me by the barista at another great coffee shop in North Tokyo, Obscura Coffee. Well, it was a good recommendation. My girlfriend found on the Internet that the owner trained with Paul Bassett, and it showed. No choice of beans, but an excellent light shot of espresso. Very tasty! I was so glad to finally find a nice cafe after going to a string of disappointing ones recently. It's a small cafe but unlike About Life or Obscura, there are a few tables inside along with a couple long bars to sit at. Macchiatos are not on the menu but they will make one for you if you ask. The price for a single shot was a bit expensive but you get a discount on second orders.

I had a macchiato after my single shot:



The Deck Coffee, Shibuya -- Walked by this cafe on the way to the station after dinner, decided to stop in with my girlfriend. It's very large. No choice of beans, but the ones on offer were actually light (I saw them with my very eyes) but managed to taste as burnt as dark beans. Really strange.




Bridge Coffee, Asakusa -- This is a very spacious cafe by Tokyo standards, but seems to be a popular cafe for people who come in with their laptops and work, so it was surprisingly busy for the area of Tokyo it's in. They have an assorted selection of pour overs, espresso drinks, ice cream, and combinations of ice cream and coffee for sale. The espresso beans were medium-roast and just what you'd expect from a competently-pulled medium bean on a Synesso. The ice cream (we tried the caramel butter flavor) was spectacular.


4/4 Seasons, Shinjuku -- A new shop that opened next to Shinjuku Park, just a few minutes walk from the south exit of Shinjuku station (just past the Wald 9 movie theater). It's not super spacious but was not crowded at all for a weekend morning. I ordered an espresso and they served a light Guatamalan single origin. It was pulled well on a Synesso and tasted great. Perhaps the best part is that they serve double shots standard. Twice the espresso for the money! They also give a 150 yen discount on second orders, which meant I was able to get a macchiato for 200 yen, which qualifies as the bargain of the centry when it comes to coffee in Tokyo. All in all, a great little coffee shop, and giving Paul Bassett's a run for their money in Shinjuku.


Toranomon Koffee, Shimbashi -- This is apparently an outlet of a small chain with 3 locations around Japan and 1 in Hong Kong. It's located on the 2nd floor of a large mixed-use restaurant mall/office building. The shop is more like two stands that are placed in an open area of the building. There are long wooden tables to sit at with some funky chairs that swing out. It's a pleasant place to have coffee. They had two three-group Synessos. Two beans were available for espresso. I had a shot of the single origin and it was quite good. Very solid cafe for espresso lovers. It's not really worth going out of your way for, but if you happen to be in the Shimbashi/Tokyo Tower area it's the best I've found.


Aristree Cafe, Shimbashi -- Just a 5 minute walk from Toranomon Koffee is Artistree Cafe. By Tokyo standards it is pretty gigantic, but when we went, we were the only customers in the shop. The shop looks very artistic and new. They didn't offer a choice of beans for espresso and the single shot I had was too dark for me. I much preferred the coffee at Toranomon, if not the atmosphere.


Kayaba Coffee, Nippori -- While the Shibuya area seems to be overflowing with great cafes, north Tokyo, where I live, is rather slim pickings. Kayaba Coffee, however, is an exception. It's a cozy, old cafe that feels cramped but authentic. There are a few tables on the first floor and tatami on the 2nd floor. It's not the type of place you'd expect third-wave espresso, but the shot I had was light and excellent.


Cafe Rekuseru, Tokyo -- A very crowded cafe in the Marunochi building near Tokyo station. They served their espresso in a big glass, just like The Roastery (what is up with that?). They offer a couple different beans. It was OK but there are less crowded places to go.


Cafe Kitsune, Omotesando -- A bit hard to find, but definitely worth it if you're in the area. I can't remember if they have more than one bean, but the medium-light roast I had was pulled well. Good atmosphere. It was small but not crowded when I went.


Sarutahiko Coffee, Sengawa -- This cafe has at least one other branch, in Ebisu, which I haven't tried. I recently moved and am just 3 stops away from this cafe by train, and it has become my go-to spot for studying or just hanging out on evenings and weekends. It's quite large for a Tokyo cafe, with two floors. They have a blend and medium-light single origin on offer, along with macchiatos, lattes, cappucinos, etc. It's a little out of the way for most people, and it's not any better than any of the other 3rd wave Tokyo cafes, but if you're already near Sengawa for some reason, this is a great cafe.


Recommended cafes for light/medium roast espresso:
Paul Bassett's, Shinjuku
4/4 Seasons, Shinjuku
Coutume, Omotesando
Cafe Kitsune, Omotesando
About Life Coffee, Shibuya (limited indoor seating)
Obscura Coffee, Akihabara (limited indoor seating)
Glitch Coffee, Jimbocho
Toranomon Koffee, Shimbashi
Kayaba Coffee, Nippori
Sarutahiko Coffee, Sengawa

Nice post! I'll definitely be referencing this after the new year. Well, I'll be in Hokkaido, but I pass through Tokyo on occasion!

that's a GB5 and most likely those are Robur grinders

DanoM wrote:Nice post! I'll definitely be referencing this after the new year. Well, I'll be in Hokkaido, but I pass through Tokyo on occasion!

Hope you find my "research" helpful!

I'm finding that there are actually a fair few third-wave cafes in Tokyo, but unfortunately they're almost all concentrated around the Shibuya/Harajuku/Omotesando triangle. Maybe one or two in Minato-ku and a few others sprinkled around randomly. In north Tokyo, where I live, it's slim pickings to say the least.

Are you moving to Japan long-term?

frank828 wrote:that's a GB5 and most likely those are Robur grinders

Thanks, Frank.

Tritone wrote:Hope you find my "research" helpful!

I'm finding that there are actually a fair few third-wave cafes in Tokyo, but unfortunately they're almost all concentrated around the Shibuya/Harajuku/Omotesando triangle. Maybe one or two in Minato-ku and a few others sprinkled around randomly. In north Tokyo, where I live, it's slim pickings to say the least.

Are you moving to Japan long-term?

Yes, currently planning on a move back to help the in-laws, a permanent relocation.

Where in north Tokyo are you living? Back in 1985 I lived in Itabashi-ku, down a meandering lane in Kami-Itabashi. Since that time most trips have been back to Hokkaido, and Tokyo is again mostly unknown to me but I still navigate the trains smoothly.

If you ever find a lever machine in a cafe I'll make a special trip!

I liked Coutume a lot. I lived in Takasaki for three months, which was an espresso desert. There were a few smoky old-style coffee shops that roasted their own beans and did hand pourovers, but they scorched the crap out of the beans. The rest were Tullys or Starbucks. I miss izakaya.

I was glad I packed my Lido 3 and aeropress.

I'm jealous. I was there for work, and fell in love with the place.

DanoM wrote:Yes, currently planning on a move back to help the in-laws, a permanent relocation.

Where in north Tokyo are you living? Back in 1985 I lived in Itabashi-ku, down a meandering lane in Kami-Itabashi. Since that time most trips have been back to Hokkaido, and Tokyo is again mostly unknown to me but I still navigate the trains smoothly.

If you ever find a lever machine in a cafe I'll make a special trip!

Wow, I'm pretty close to Itabashi-ku. I'm around Nishi-Nippori in Arakawa.

I've never been to Hokkaido but everything I've heard has been very positive. Seems like a beautiful place.

I'll keep my eyes out for a lever machine. I think that is actually the kind of old-world, retro (obsolete?) craftmanship and skill that would be right up the alley of the Japanese, especially with their heavy European gastronomic influences, but I have yet to encounter one.

EDIT! I did some quick Googling (duh!) and found a bar in Setagaya that supposedly has a lever espresso machine, AND only charges 100 yen a shot! It's called "Bar Gelateria Antica." It looks like they have a three-group Izzo Pompei.

Exordium01 wrote:I liked Coutume a lot. I lived in Takasaki for three months, which was an espresso desert. There were a few smoky old-style coffee shops that roasted their own beans and did hand pourovers, but they scorched the crap out of the beans. The rest were Tullys or Starbucks. I miss izakaya.

I was glad I packed my Lido 3 and aeropress.

I'm jealous. I was there for work, and fell in love with the place.

Cotume is definitely one of the top tier cafes I've tried so far. I'll definitely go back if I'm in that area again.

And if you're feeling jealous, just remind yourself that at least you don't have to ride the Tokyo trains during rush hour every morning.

Tritone wrote:EDIT! I did some quick Googling (duh!) and found a bar in Setagaya that supposedly has a lever espresso machine, AND only charges 100 yen a shot! It's called "Bar Gelateria Antica." It looks like they have a three-group Izzo Pompei.

Ohhh.... Even if it's a terrible shot I'd still like to see it in operation once. Might have to make a detour on my way to Hokkaido.

Tritone wrote:And if you're feeling jealous, just remind yourself that at least you don't have to ride the Tokyo trains during rush hour every morning.

Yeah, that's an experience I don't mind being without.
Of course it's already snowed at the in-laws a few days ago... So I guess I get the cold.

Looks like a great place to have a coffee. Thats a theme i've noticed in a few tokyo stores is they always have clean tile design.

Japanese culture is notorious for keeping things spick and span.

Very nice, I am definitly going to come back to this thread. Going to tag it with some key words now so I can find it when I need it in my history

* Japanese coffee shops cafes