www.compasscoffeeroasting.com: coffee is culinary

Building a PID Kettle Controller?

Postby sweaner on Sun Jul 03, 2011 11:05 am

I would like to learn how to put together a PID controller like the one in the link below. Can anyone tell me what I would need and how hard it would be? Would I be able to do it more economically that just purchasing one?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_...ucts_id=48
Scott
LMWDP #248

Man does not live by coffee alone...we need beer too.
User avatar
sweaner
 
Posts: 1366
Joined: Feb 17, 2008
Location: Yardley, PA

Postby Randy G. on Sun Jul 03, 2011 12:20 pm

You would need:
- A PID with relay output, and I would also want an auto-tune function
- A sensor capable of submersion
- a project box to mount the PID in
- a power cord
- a switch (the DPST is a good idea to be sure everything is off and safe)
- a surface-mount electrical socket for the kettle to plug into
- an SSR (solid state relay). 15 amps would be a good choice.
- wiring as needed, a strain relief for the power cord, socket for sensor possibly, etc.

Image
The ground connections would be to a common lug inside the box

I suppose there are other ways to do it, but I think this would work, and it could be used to control many different systems (like a deep fryer, etc.)
Espresso! My Espresso!
http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com
User avatar
Randy G.
 
Posts: 2224
Joined: May 12, 2007
Location: Yankee Hill, CA

Postby allon on Sun Jul 03, 2011 12:28 pm

I have something like this for my roaster;
I split a duplex socket and have one half controlled by the PID, and the other half controlled by a dimmer.
I also have a programmable PID, not just a single set-point.

I mounted my socket inside of a metal outlet box, which doubles as the heat-sink for the SSR (I mounted it on the back).

Also, you don't need a relay output PID - a transistor output is fine for driving a SSR.

You also want to run the neutral from the line in directly to the neutral of the socket, and the hot through the SSR to the hot of the socket. Neutral is the larger blade (and/or silver colored terminal) while hot is the smaller blade (and brass colored terminal).

Also, I used a barrier strip to split out the wiring in a neat and safe manner.
LMWDP #331
User avatar
allon
 
Posts: 1078
Joined: Apr 23, 2011
Location: Northern VA

Postby jt on Thu Oct 27, 2011 1:56 pm

Here is an Open Source PID controller kit folks are using to control coffee urns
for sous vide cooking and diy bio-hacking.
I am thinking about adding it to my Gaggia Evo -
it includes the Solid State Relay.
Assembly *is* required.

http://lowereastkitchen.com/wp/
jt
 
Posts: 1
Joined: Oct 27, 2011
Location: us

Postby DJR on Fri Oct 28, 2011 1:15 am

Don't know your application exactly, but you might consider a $30 router speed controller like the one I use to control my La Peppina. Works very well, stable, easy to change temp and to turn off. No probes necessary. Just a good thermometer for initial calibration.

So if its for keeping a non-pressurized vessel at the same temperature (say 208f), it would work well, I think. If you try it and it doesn't do what you want, you'd still have a nice dimmer for speed control for other uses.
User avatar
DJR
 
Posts: 330
Joined: Apr 17, 2010
Location: N. California

Postby allon on Fri Oct 28, 2011 7:35 am

A speed controller is designed to overcome the problems plain dimmers have with inductive loads.

Since a heater is pretty much a resistive load, a cheap dimmer should work.

(I use a cheap dimmer as a motor controller on my iRoast fan and thus far it has survived)

But the problem with this sort of open loop setup is that if the conditions change (water level, ambient temp) the results will drift. And you won't get fast rise times either.

I think a PID is a fine choice.
LMWDP #331
User avatar
allon
 
Posts: 1078
Joined: Apr 23, 2011
Location: Northern VA

Postby Jeff on Fri Oct 28, 2011 11:00 am

I would agree on a "PID" controller being a good choice. It is pretty amazing how cheap they have become on eBay these days. I can't comment on the quality of the ones that now make an Auber look "high end" by comparison.

I think the biggest challenges you will face come in tuning the controller, not in assembling it. You've typically got a relatively large heating element compared to the volume of water. Beyond that, if the amount of water in the kettle varies, the dynamics of the system will vary as well. PID controllers aren't magic; even the best auto-tune algorithms (which you probably aren't getting in an "eBay special") will have a hard time dealing with the very fast heating, relatively slow cooling, and changing mass of water, especially on a kettle that will boil water in a minute or so. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up with mainly a Proportional controller (with the Integral and Derivative parts turned off), or close to it.
User avatar
Jeff
 
Posts: 192
Joined: Aug 10, 2005
Location: San Francisco

Postby Nick on Sat Nov 19, 2011 1:05 am

Don't mean to be a party-pooper, but why would you want a PID kettle? The temperature precision that a PID controller provides is mitigated by the sum of the other factors involved in filter coffee brewing. PID makes sense for espresso, much less so for filter brewing.
Nick
wreckingballcoffee.com
nickcho.com
Nick
 
Posts: 165
Joined: Sep 14, 2005
Location: Redwood City, CA

Postby DJR on Sat Nov 19, 2011 1:14 am

I have a Japanese airpot 1.8 liter, I think, that keeps water at 208 reliably and accurately. You might want to look into one of those. I think it cost less than $100 (on sale), less than a PID and it dispenses the water with a two speed pump.
User avatar
DJR
 
Posts: 330
Joined: Apr 17, 2010
Location: N. California

Postby sweaner on Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:40 pm

Nick wrote:Don't mean to be a party-pooper, but why would you want a PID kettle? The temperature precision that a PID controller provides is mitigated by the sum of the other factors involved in filter coffee brewing. PID makes sense for espresso, much less so for filter brewing.


I am using the Pino kettle, but instead of having it drift from 212 to 200, then re-boiling, I wanted it to stay at a set temp. It seems they could build that in to a model with relative ease.
Scott
LMWDP #248

Man does not live by coffee alone...we need beer too.
User avatar
sweaner
 
Posts: 1366
Joined: Feb 17, 2008
Location: Yardley, PA

Next

Return to Coffee Brewing