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Contents |
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Introduction Espresso Performance Steaming Performance Materials and Workmanship Conclusion Epilogue |
The profiles of the three E61s shown in the chart in How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love HXs are compelling evidence for the argument that temperature stability is not a distinguishing characteristic among prosumer E61 espresso machines. In terms of espresso performance, the similarities didn’t stop there. After some minor adjustments and using the same portafilter baskets, all three machines used the same grind setting and produced similar double espresso shots.
Allow me to share my experience with home espresso machines that I believe is relevant to whatever espresso machine you might choose. After this short detour, I’ll return the specifics of the Andreja Premium and its competitors’ performance.
I’ve read time and again a new espresso enthusiast’s laments about the difficulties of frothing milk. Often other members suggest replacing the stock tip, leading me to ask myself in frustration, “Why can’t manufacturers provide a stock tip that works for the home barista?!?”
This question was all the more poignant while I was writing the buyer’s guide for the La Spaziale S1. There’s no mention of it in the final text, but I thought the original pre-production steam tip and wand were basically hopeless, deserving of the complaints similar to those I’d read online. Seriously, I was unable to produce anything but airy “macrofoam,” period. Tired of my whining, Chris worked with the manufacturer to swap in a new arm and tip. Now the S1 sets the bar for ease of frothing, all for less than $30 in parts. Fantastic!
While at the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) show in Atlanta this past spring, I passed by the La Spaziale booth and spied an S1 with the original setup. They also had a pro barista working their commercial equipment. I think, “Let’s see what this guy can do with the stock S1 where I failed.” He fills up a 24 ounce pitcher about halfway and froths up a very nice, dry, pretty cappuccino with a heart on top.
A little light bulb illuminates above my head: They’re optimizing their tip selection for producing what we in the U.S. would call “dry cappuccinos.” This preparation style is traditional, but it’s not my drink of choice—I want microfoamed milk with a richer, velvety texture.
I try to explain to the pro barista what I prefer. My limited expressive ability and his minimal English language skills come down to his reasonable request: “Please show me.” Great, my old nemesis awaits: A honking four-hole monster tip on the end of a short wand (it barely reaches halfway down a 24 ounce pitcher). Undaunted, I take the pitcher filled with lukewarm milk. Despite my trepidation, I managed some decently smooth microfoam. An American woman who watched this whole episode tasted it, oooh’ing and ahhh’ing approvingly. Their barista said only “very nice.”
What I took from the experience is the realization that manufacturers don’t have it all wrong. They’ve got it just right—for their Italian clientele. Our tastes and goals differ from them. Some manufacturers have already recognized this difference in preference, others have yet to hear the message. Returning back to the immediate subject at hand, the good news is that all three of the espresso machines discussed in this guide are well capable of producing excellent microfoam. The speed with which they accomplish it varies dramatically, as shown in the table below.
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8 ounces |
10 ounces |
12 ounces |
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Andreja Premium |
30 |
41 |
48 |
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Giotto Premium |
28 |
38 |
43 |
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Isomac Rituale |
61 |
75 |
84 |
Seconds required to heat water from 40 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit (boiler pressure of 1.2 bar)
The Andreja and Giotto Premium have the same swivel “no burn” steam arms and swivel water taps. They also have similarly-sized boiler, although Andreja’s is oriented vertically and the Giotto’s is oriented horizontally. The different boiler orientations and water levels likely account for the Giotto’s slight speed advantage, although it is barely perceptible in practical use, especially when comparing their performance while the boilers are actively heating. The Rituale, in sharp contrast, froths slowly in comparison.
Some owners actually prefer a more modest steaming pace since it gives them additional time to “finesse” the development of microfoam. My personal preference is fast and rocking frothing, which the two top performers delivered, nearing the stretching and texturing ability of a commercial machine. Their stock tips are also good choices, allowing for both fine microfoam and thicker, airier microfoam by adjusting the time and depth of the stretching phase (if these terms are unfamiliar, I recommend The Milk Frothing Guide as an excellent reference).
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