Hi All,

Interested to get a home roaster and eyeing on the quest m3 but still have couple questions.

This will be for personal use so small batch size is perfectly fine for me. Mostly for espresso and I like ristretto if that matters.

The questions are;

1. There is a slightly pricier model that comes with variable speed drum control. From the past threads, the standard 50rpm seems to be golden and I wonder if that is still the case.

2. If I want to do some bean profiling, do I get the original thermocouple and get Eric's kit on top or Eric's kit has everything I needed to start other than Jim's kit?

3. Should I get the extra element right away and if there are other parts that I should order at the same time.

Thanks for the help in advance.

I don't know enough to give an opinion regarding variable speed drum.

Regarding Roasting:
What ever you want to do with the Quest, I think the easiest solution is a Phidgets 1048 temperature sensor and K-thermocouples off the eBay for the Bean Temperature and Max Environmental Temperature measurements. It will cost less than $130 US. and will work easily. I am not one who holds that $40 Omega thermocouples are needed. I have checked about ten K couples and have found the Chinese ones close enough for roasting. One or two degrees off, will not mess up a batch of beans. When we want to copy another roaster's profile we can't rely on their temperature readings as absolutes. They are relatives even with the same bean in the same roaster, different roasters get different readings due to their choice of equipment.

Here is a thermocouple that works for the BT and ET. It screws right into the M8 holes in the faceplate.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50x5mm-800C-K-T ... 3a8dad77a0
This will replace the dial thermometer under the trier and the bolt on the other side.

Here is a bare K type thermocouple for MET. I added the braided stainless shielding from the other K-couple.
I stuck mine in about two inches but I have tried four and it doesn't seem to matter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-K-Type-The ... 51bc019382

This one will be pushed into the upper right bolt hole of the bean chute after you remove the Allen bolt. I tied all three wires to the frame with a wire tie.



Buy a Phidgets 1048 to read the thermocouples and the plexiglass case that lives in.
http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1048
http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3810

You'll have to cut the ends off of your K-thermocouples to get them into the Phidgets 1048 terminals. Plug the USB side of the Phidgets into your computer and roast with Artisan.

I also have an ET probe mounted across from the BT, but recently have stopped caring or recording what the ET is. MET and BT seem to me to be the controlling measurements I use during a roast.

Spare Parts:
No real opinion as it depends on whether you think the parts won't be available when needed. I think they will be or that I will be able to source parts from other places. I think that the Quest, (mine was made in April 2013), has been refined to the point of being a solid machine with normal use and watchfulness. I think there is a max current that the system allows (at least I can't peg my amp meter), and I don't see how you could stand being around the machine with smoke pouring out from a 10 amp roast left to fend for itself past 2Ce. TomC cautions us not to walk away from our roasters for safety's sake and I agree. We also want great coffee and that takes monitoring during the roast using Artisan, sight, sound, and smell.

Best wishes on your decision.

1. This depends on your roast style. I wish I could get up to 60rpm so I could run a little hotter and faster through the ramp phase, but I get great results with the 50rpm.

2. Can't speak to this.

3. The heating elements will last you a good long while. Buying a spare now will likely just be extra clutter that will get lost before you ever need it.

UltramaticOrange wrote:This depends on your roast style. I wish I could get up to 60rpm so I could run a little hotter and faster through the ramp phase, but I get great results with the 50rpm.

I just ran downstairs and took the lower back plate off my Quest M3, (does M3 mean model#3?).
The gearmotor in my roaster is a 2IK6GN-A coupled to a 2GN30Y2 gearhead. According the chart I have, this is a 6 watt motor with a gearhead that outputs 60 rpm.

Motor: 2IK6GN-A; 6W, 60Hz, 110V, 0.21A, 420gcm 1450rpm
coupled to
Gearhead: 2GN30Y2; 8.1Kgcm, 30 reduction ratio yields 60rpm @ 60Hz.

Maybe Quest used different setups as the design evolved.

Those numbers do not add up to a final drum RPM of 60 unless the motor RPM or reduction ratio is incorrect.

The Quest is a fantastic machine, and I am sure you will be pleased with the purchase. Regarding your questions:

1. I would pass on this option, but I am interested in Alastair's response and will ask a follow-up question below.*

2. I am a huge fan of Eric's set-up, and I have used a few incarnations. I like the idea of the phidget, and will likely get one to play with when time allows, but Eric's adapters remain a must IMHO.

3. No need as other have mentioned.


* Alastair: Your drum is painted matte black, I assume? Do you currently run into tipping problems with naturals (or all) when really putting the spurs to it at ramp? Happy to follow up via PM so as not to derail thread.

UltramaticOrange wrote:1. This depends on your roast style. I wish I could get up to 60rpm so I could run a little hotter and faster through the ramp phase, but I get great results with the 50rpm.

OldNuc wrote:Those numbers do not add up to a final drum RPM of 60 unless the motor RPM or reduction ratio is incorrect.

I found the file here:
http://www.tunglee.net/e-htm/pro01.htm

I agree, I did the math too and got a different rpm
but that is what the manufacturer of the motor reported

The 1450 sounds like the 50hz RPM rating and that would be 1740 or so at 60hz and that little correction would be 58 RPM which is close enough to 60 RPM for government work.

Your link never loads, makes it to Los Angles and dies.

Thanks Sas for the detail explanation and I am pretty much set to get a standard unit.

So the Phidgets can hook up BT,ET and MET sensor and work together with Artisan. What is the difference between this option over TC4C? I really have no idea hence my question may seems odd.

As for the MET sensor you listed, it does not bolt in like the other M8 thermocouple. How did you get it to seal properly?

So to add the stainless shielding, I would need to get 3 x M8 type thermocouple plus 1 for the Met, right?

Thanks again for all the helps.

[quote="UseIt4Toddy"]
2. I am a huge fan of Eric's set-up, and I have used a few incarnations. I like the idea of the phidget, and will likely get one to play with when time allows, but Eric's adapters remain a must IMHO.

Hi UseItToddy,

Can you let me know why you like Eric's adapters better? Pm would be good for me 2. Thx.