Does it have a 20 amp plug as opposed to a 15 amp plug? With prongs like this one (note one is sideways)?



If indeed it is 20 amp and puts out a potential max of 2400W I would want to put it on its own dedicated circuit as 2400W is the max for a 20 amp outlet.

[Duplicate post]

It doesn't. It is a regular plug.
This contributed to the confusion.

That is confusing. How does the machine know that it is plugged into 20 amps and thus change its power mode?

It doesn't. The style of plug is irrelevant to the actual operation of the machine. The end user must ensure that the wiring and circuit is suitable for the appliance being used.

So it has a 15 amp plug. If someone plugs it into a 15 amp circuit, the machine still attempts to put out 2400W?

I thought machines that were 15/20 amp had a setting in the pid or a hard switch to convert from one to the other. This machine has neither?

Perhaps this is the reason that the machine has been sold in Canada (where a minimum of two - 20 amp individual circuits in the kitchen (without the funky sideways outlet) has been part of the electrical code for at least 50 years) and not in the USA.

thm655321 wrote:So it has a 15 amp plug. If someone plugs it into a 15 amp circuit, the machine still attempts to put out 2400W?

I thought machines that were 15/20 amp had a setting in the pid or a hard switch to convert from one to the other. This machine has neither?

The machine has no idea what kind of plug is at the end of its cord. If both boilers call for heat it will attempt to pull 2400 watts regardless of plug. As long as the outlet was properly wired, the breaker would trip if it was plugged into service sized for a 15A load.

As an example, I could have installed all NEMA 5-15 outlets on the 20A service I just ran in my kitchen for my new machine. I could have then plugged the "converter cord" that came with the machine into that outlet and set the pid for 20A operation and it would have ran just fine with both boilers heating simultaneously. Why? Because I used the appropriate gauge wire for the length of the run at 20A and installed a 20A breaker. The machine doesn't know what it's plugged into. It just does what it is told to do. If someone sticks a 20A breaker in their panel and the wiring isn't properly sized, they risk a fire. You cannot install an outlet that exceeds the service capability, but you can install an outlet rated for less than the circuit is. The gauge of wire and length of run ultimately determines the amperage you can pull on that branch. This will tell you what size breaker can control that branch. The outlet isn't the determining factor at all.

A more important question, and one I don't know the answer to, is can a manufacturer sell a 20A appliance with a 5-15 plug on it in the United States?

In today's age of "figure it out for me" it woudn't surprise me. Regardless, you should always be aware of the power consumption of any device you plug into any outlet and you be confident that the outlet you are using can safely handle the load.

With respect I fully understand the wiring dynamics.

What I was trying to get across is I think it is just asking for trouble to not clearly spell out the 20 amp requirement, especially where it comes with a 15 amp plug that those who don't read the manual (which if my wife is any indication most people don't) will just assume they can plug into any receptacle like other electrical appliances with that plug. Leaving the user to "do the math" (which those unfamiliar with the electrical requirements will not be able to do) based on the 2400W specification listed deep in the manual is a sure way to blow circuits and lead to claims that the machine is defective. I searched the manual and the amperage is never specified. Nor is it specified in the manual for the 700, but that machine does not have the same issues as it is 15 amp.