Hi All

I am currently using a dosered Mazzer Major as my espresso grinder, however I've now got an opportunity to pick up a used K10 for around $700. To put the cost into perspective this is around the price of a new Mazzer Super Jolly here, or less than half the price of a Mahlkoenig K30.

I understand that this grinder was used for 5 years in a light commercial environment, so I am budgeting for new burrs as well. Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for when I examine the grinder? Any essential updates that were only done after a certain manufacturing date?

My current plan is to run the two grinders side by side for a while and then sell the one I like the least. Anything with respect to useability I should be aware of before I bite the bullet?

Thanks
Bruce

Don't waste any more time thinking about it. If it runs, buy it now.

+1 from what I hear the K10 is basically a Major sized Robur.

I went from a Major to my 2009 vintage K10WBC. No regrets whatsoever. Does the seller have any idea how many lbs have been run through it?

I'll chime in as a happy user of a Compak K10'WBC for about 6 years now.

I've been using a Compak K10 WBC for six years and still love it a lot. Can't go wrong with a K10.

As long as you're prepared to replace the burrs, the most significant item to check would be the motor bearings. There should be no wobble in the shaft and there should be no rattling sounds or any indication that the shaft isn't turning smoothly. If the grinder really has been used only lightly for five years, I wouldn't expect the bearings to be worn at all.

[NOTE: looking down at the lower burr as it spins it may appear that the shaft wobbling, but that's an illusion -- the screw is slightly off center.]

[ALSO NOTE: There may be rattling sounds coming from the plastic tray in the base if it's loose, or from the plastic apron at the top if it's loose, or from the doser if a bolt or screw isn't completely tight. These are minor issues that are easily remedied. You can determine the source of the noise by putting your hand on these parts to see if the rattling stops or changes.]

With the hopper and burr chamber empty, turn on the grinder and make sure the grind adjustment collar turns smoothly throughout the range. If not, the burr carrier threads could be stripped or contaminated with grounds. The former is a big problem, the latter can be fixed. As you turn you may hear some contact between the burrs. This is caused by play in the burr carrier and is normal. You can also see the play when you tighten the collar screw. That's normal, too.

Be sure to try the grinder with some beans in the throat, or preferrably a few inches of beans in the hopper. This is to make sure the motor has enough torque to start when there's resistance against the burrs from whole beans. If the grinder fails to start or jams, the motor start capacitor is probably shot and needs to be replaced. Not hard to do and costs around $60.

Finally, search HB for threads on changing K10 burrs. There have been some recent posts discussing lubrication and how much to tighten the bolts that hold the burr carrier together. You'll want to be thoroughly familiar with the disassembly/reassembly steps before proceeding.

I also got a used K10 and modified it doserless. I kept my HG1 for a while to compare them, found no difference that I could detect in the cup, so I sold the HG1. Ergonomics are different for single dosing (hand grinding vs sweeping out the chute) but overall amounts to just preference.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm hoping to view the grinder this weekend and will post an update if I go for it.

Thanks again
Bruce

I have a E10 OD and the built-in quality and grinding are just phenomenal. I would go with the K10 WBC especially at that price. New burrs would be great but test the machine first before getting new ones. Good luck